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The W Trek
The W Trek is one of the most frequently hiked trails in all of Patagonia, and for good reason. It combines the world renowned mountain peaks, piercing blue glaciers, and sprawling forests of Patagonia with trails that are well marked and trodden so that people of all experience levels can find out what Patagonia has to offer.
The W Trek can be completed in 4 – 6 days depending on your fitness level, preferred hiking pace, and of course, the weather. This guide will provide you with everything you need to know to prepare for, and hike the W Trek independently. The hiking times and distances are based on my own experiences so please always consider your own fitness level and ability.
The hike up to the base of the towers in Torres Del Paine is the epic finale to the W Trek.
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When to Go
Torres Del Paine is open from September to April each year. It is important to know that the O Circuit is only open until the end of March. The entire park can also close early depending on the weather. I note it is possible to hike in Torres Del Paine during the winter months, but usually only if you have specialised expedition experience and with prior approval.
Peak
Peak season is from November to February. The busiest and most expensive time is during December and January. Some people would say that everything outside of December and January is shoulder season; however, the prices and numbers of people do significantly drop once it gets to March, and prior to November.
Shoulder
Shoulder season is in October and March. I completed the O Circuit in March and it was the cheapest and least busy at that time. This is when I would recommend attending if you want to avoid the crowds and experience more of the famous Patagonian weather.
If you don’t mind a bit of snow and are prepared for experiencing the famous Patagonian winds then the shoulder season is the way to go. We were lucky enough to see the Autumn colours roll in on the last week of March too which was pretty spectacular. I imagine October is equally as beautiful given that it is Spring. If the weather sounds a bit too intense, then aim for the middle of the Summer months.
We were lucky enough to get weather like this while exploring the French Valley!
Getting There and Away
Puerto Natales is the base for entrance and departure of the Torres Del Paine National Park. For further details about getting to and from Puerto Natales to other areas of Patagonia and South America, then check out my Ultimate Guide to Torres Del Paine. Once in Puerto Natales, it is very easy to get to and from Torres Del Paine to complete the W Trek.
Puerto Natales to Torres Del Paine
Buses run twice a day from Puerto Natales to the Torres Del Paine National Park for $7,500.00 CLP ($15.50 AUD).
- 7.20am – 1 hour 30 minutes
- 12.30pm – 1 hour 30 minutes
Shuttle buses then take you from the registration centre to the welcome centre near Refugio Central for $3,000.00 CLP ($6.20 AUD). You can walk this distance but there isn’t much to see and it isn’t really worth the time. The shuttle times run according to the buses that drop you at the registration centre. They take no longer than 15 minutes to arrive at the beginning of the trails.
Torres Del Paine to Puerto Natales
Shuttle buses take you from the welcome centre near Refugio Central to the registration centre for $3,000.00 CLP ($6.20 AUD).
- 2.00pm – 15 minutes
- 7.00pm – 15 minutes
Buses run twice a day from the Torres Del Paine National Park to Puerto Natales for $7,500.00 CLP ($15.50 AUD).
- 2.30pm – 1 hour 30 minutes
- 7.45pm – 1 hour 30 minutes
How to Book the W Trek
The more popular sites and refugios book out several months in advance, so get in quick!
You need to book in advance for all of your camp sites and / or refugio stays in Torres Del Paine. This is especially the case if you want to book during the peak season on the W Trek. They complete checks for bookings at various refugios. If you don’t have the required booking then they may ask you to leave.
Even during the shoulder seasons almost all of the refugios and camp sites were full, especially on the W Trek section of the circuit. You won’t get very far in the park without a booking so it is better to organise it well in advance or at least have it sorted in Puerto Natales before you get on the bus to the park.
It is also good to remember that the limits are there for a reason. Restrictions are to preserve the trails from overuse and to limit the number of people at each camp site and refugio so that they can be properly maintained. Before you try to cheat the system, which is very common during peak season, think about the impacts of overcrowding to the gorgeous natural environment of the Torres Del Paine National Park.
HOW TO BOOK
Once you have decided on your route and dates for the O Circuit, you then need to head online to reserve your sites. The three companies you will need to book through are Fantastico Sur, and Vertice Patagonia for the paid campsites and CONAF for the free national park campsites. When I completed my bookings, I tried to do them all at the same time to ensure I received all of the required dates for the O Circuit.
You are able to email the companies if you have made an error or need to alter dates, but it is a lot easier to get it right the first time. I booked around four months in advance which gave me quite a lot of flexibility in dates, especially because I was going at the end of the season, in the last week of March.
If you want to book for the peak Summer dates then you need to book as early as possible. Check the websites and forums to find out when bookings open. It was six months in advance for the 2017 – 2018 season; however, this can change.
WHAT IF IT IS BOOKED OUT
In the event you haven’t booked in advance or you left it too late and the online bookings say it is full, you can still head to Puerto Natales in hopes of there being availability. Once there you can attend the offices in person for the paid sites and try to make your bookings. When I was in Torres Del Paine in March, the online system was showing as fully booked. When my friends attended the offices there was actually still plenty of space.
If you are unable to secure the dates and sites you want for the W Trek, then you may need to consider altering your itinerary, direction or number of hiking days. Failing this, you can also consider completing day trips, or a one night entry into the park depending on what is still available. Check out my Ultimate Guide to Torres Del Paine.
The W Trek – Suggested Routes
Duration
The W can be comfortably completed in 5 – 6 days. You can also shorten this hike significantly if you are a fast hiker or are on a tighter schedule. This may mean that you need to exclude some of the return hikes to view points, or that you bypass certain camp sites. I have included an itinerary for a shorter 4 – 5 day version, but you can also build your own shorter itinerary using the hiking times and kilometres as a guide.
Direction
The W Trek can be completed in either direction, either beginning at Paine Grande or Central. So if you would prefer to start at Camp Central then just reverse the camping route suggested below. Please note, the hours hiked may vary as I have only hiked the W from Paine Grande to Central as part of the O Circuit.
6 Days / 5 Nights
Day 1 – Camp Grey (Camp and Refugio)
Approximately 3.5hours and 11km to Camp Grey and then varied times and distances to the mirador from Grey to Paso.
Catch the ferry to Paine Grande. Then hike up past Camp Grey, as far as the weather and time will permit. There are quite a few mirador’s on this section that will allow you to see Glacier Grey and parts of the Patagonian Ice Fields without having to complete the O Circuit. You won’t be able to hike to the John Gardner Pass though. You are not allowed to hike that far in the clockwise direction. I would recommend hiking at least to the first or second swing bridge for the best views. Then hike back and stay at Camp Grey on your way back.
Day 2 – Paine Grande (Camp and Refugio)
Approximately 3.5 hours and 11km.
Hike from Grey to Paine Grande and secure your tent very well at Paine Grande due to the extreme winds.
Day 3 – Italiano / Francais (Free camp sites and Paid camp sites)
Approximately 2 hours and 7.5km to Italiano.
Hike from Paine Grande to Italiano. Drop your bags and/or setup your tent and then hike the return trip up the French Valley.
French Valley – Total 5 hours and 10km return.
Approximately 1 hour and 30minutes and 3.5km to Mirador Francais and then approximately 1 hour and 2.5km to Mirador Britanico.
If you are not camping at the free campsite at Italiano and continuing on to Camp Francais, then it is a further 30 minutes and 2km from Italiano to Camp Francais.
Day 4 – Chileno / Central (Free/Paid site to Full board / Cooking allowed site)
Chileno – Approximately 6.5 hours and 22km from Italiano to Chileno. Approximately 6 hours and 20km from Francais to Chileno.
Hike from either Italiano or Francais towards Central and then take the shortcut to Chileno. This should be at about 17km from Italiano with a further 5km up towards Chileno to the left of the fork in the route.
Central – Approximately 6 hours and 22km from Italiano to Central. Approximately 5.5 hours and 20km from Francais to Central.
Hike from either Italiano or Francais towards Central and continue on the trail without taking the shortcut to Chileno for a further 5km from the fork in the route.
Day 5 – Base de la Torres and then Central
Chileno – Approximately 4 hours and 8km return from Chileno to the base of the towers and back. A further 2 hours and 5.5km back to the Camp Central (Refugio Torre).
Then collect your pack from Chileno and continue hiking back to Camp Central (Refugio Torre) for your final night stay.
Central – Approximately 8 hours and 18 km from Central to the base of the towers and back.
You will leave your pack at Central in the morning and collect it on your way to the bus back to Puerto Natales.
Day 6 – Puerto Natales
If you decided to stay at Central on your final night then today you will already be near the Welcome Centre and ready for the 2.00pm shuttle bus out of the park. If the weather permits you should be able to see a lovely sunrise from Camp Central and then enjoy some rest in the Refugio before departing.
5 Days / 4 Nights
Fresh snow fall on the hike up to the base of the towers at the end of the W Trek.
Day 1 – Camp Grey (Camp and Refugio)
Approximately 3.5hours and 11km to Camp Grey and then varied times and distances to the mirador from Grey to Paso.
Catch the ferry to Paine Grande. Then hike up past Camp Grey, as far as the weather and time will permit. There are quite a few mirador’s on this section that will allow you to see Glacier Grey and parts of the Patagonian Ice Fields without having to complete the O Circuit. You won’t be able to hike to the John Gardner Pass though. You are not allowed to hike that far in the clockwise direction. I would recommend hiking at least to the first or second swing bridge for the best views. Then hike back and stay at Camp Grey on your way back.
Day 2 – Paine Grande (Camp and Refugio)
Approximately 3.5 hours and 11km.
Hike from Grey to Paine Grande and secure your tent very well at Paine Grande due to the extreme winds.
Day 3 – Italiano / Francais (Free camp sites and Paid camp sites)
Approximately 2 hours and 7.5km to Italiano.
Hike from Paine Grande to Italiano. Drop your bags and/or setup your tent and then hike the return trip up the French Valley.
French Valley – Total 5 hours and 10km return.
Approximately 1 hour and 30minutes and 3.5km to Mirador Francais and then approximately 1 hour and 2.5km to Mirador Britanico.
If you are not camping at the free campsite at Italiano and continuing on to Camp Francais, then it is a further 30 minutes and 2km from Italiano to Camp Francais.
Day 4 – Chileno / Central (Free/Paid site to Full board / Cooking allowed site)
Chileno – Approximately 6.5 hours and 22km from Italiano to Chileno. Approximately 6 hours and 20km from Francais to Chileno.
Hike from either Italiano or Francais towards Central and then take the shortcut to Chileno. This should be at about 17km from Italiano with a further 5km up towards Chileno to the left of the fork in the route.
Central – Approximately 6 hours and 22km from Italiano to Central. Approximately 5.5 hours and 20km from Francais to Central.
Hike from either Italiano or Francais towards Central and continue on the trail without taking the shortcut to Chileno for a further 5km from the fork in the route.
Day 5 – Base de las Torres and then Puerto Natales
Chileno – Approximately 4 hours and 8km return from Chileno to the base of the towers and back. A further 2 hours and 5.5km back to the Welcome Centre.
Hike from Chileno to the base of the torres and back. Then collect your pack from Chileno and continue hiking back to the Welcome Centre to depart on the 2.00pm or 7.00pm shuttle bus back to Puerto Natales.
Central – Approximately 8 hours and 18km return from Central to the base of the towers and back. Then walk to the nearby Welcome Centre.
You will leave your pack at Central in the morning and collect it on your way to the Welcome Centre to catch the bus back to Puerto Natales at either 2.00pm or 7.00pm.
What to Pack
Packing for multi-day hiking can be overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be.
This is usually one of the biggest questions for a lot of people setting off on a multi-day trek in Patagonia. Deciding what to pack for the W Trek in Torres Del Paine can be a little overwhelming, particularly if you have never done a multi-day hike before.
I have put together a hiking packing post about what to pack for any multi-day hike, with Patagonia specifically in mind. It covers clothing, shelter, trekking gear, food and safety gear.
The beauty of this packing list is that you only need to increase your food, and possibly take an extra gas canister for hikes of increased lengths. All of your other gear should remain the same for hikes of two, five or even ten days. Once you’ve read that packing list, my Ultimate Guide to Torres Del Paine, and this post, you should be ready to get out there and conquer the W Trek.
Travel Insurance
As with any outdoor adventure activity while travelling, it is always important to have an appropriate travel insurance policy. I used World Nomads for my trip to South America and it covered me for all of my different adventure activities and hiking while in Patagonia. I personally loved that the policy covered hiking up to 6,000m, which is not covered by a lot of other travel insurance standard policies. I was also able to claim through my policy for the damage to my mirrorless camera that happened whilst I was hiking in Patagonia.
Get a quote now for your preferred dates and make sure you are covered.
Extra Information
Can You Hike The W Trek Solo?
Yes You Can!
If you are like me, and you are a solo traveller or you will be solo for your time in Patagonia then you may be concerned about whether you can or should hike the W Trek solo. I am here to tell you that it is very possible and doable. The W Trek is actually the perfect hike for anyone looking to get into multi-day trekking on their own or with hiking partners.
There are designated camp sites and refugios for the entire of the W Trek, so you will never find yourself alone of an evening. Given the number of people who head to Torres Del Paine each year, there is rarely ever a shortage of people on the trail. The W Trek often has so many people on it that you will never feel alone on the trail. If you are after more solitude then I would suggest tackling the O Circuit or one of the more remote hikes in Patagonia such as the hike to Cerro Castillo.
Making friends along the way was all part of the fun of the W Trek!
My Personal Experience as a Solo Hiker
So even if you start the trail as a solo hiker, you will never be truly alone on the trail. You may even find that you meet someone in Puerto Natales at your hostel or accommodation before you start the hike. I arrived in Puerto Natales as a solo hiker. I ended up meeting someone in my hostel who was starting the O Circuit the same day as me so we decided to tackle it together. I met a lot of other people who had this same circumstance for both the W Trek and the O Circuit.
So please don’t book an organised tour for the W Trek because you are a solo hiker. I have faith that you will meet plenty of people to hike with, share the camp sites with at night, and share the overall experience of the W Trek with.
A quick selfie in the French Valley with two of the incredible friends I made on the trail.
What to do with Your Non-Hiking Gear
While I was planning my trip to Patagonia, one of my first concerns was what I would do with all of my extra travel gear that I didn’t need for my multi-day hikes. I was travelling for six months through South America at the time so I had a lot of extra gear that I didn’t really want to carry while hiking.
Luckily, the hostel owners in Patagonia know that this is the case for most travellers and hikers so most of them will let you leave any extra gear behind in storage while you complete your hike. In most areas of Patagonia, particularly on the Carretera Austral and in Bariloche, I found the hostels stored my extra gear for free. In Puerto Natales, a lot of the hostels charge a small storage fee. As I mentioned in my Ultimate Guide to Torres Del Paine, Puerto Natales can be a bit more expensive than the rest of Patagonia because it is quite remote and very popular.
A lot of people emptied their extra gear into garbage bags or spare daypacks they had with them that weren’t needed on the trail. I used the Osprey transit cover that I bought to protect my hiking backpack during transit as my ‘storage bag’. I never had any issues with security or theft of any of my items that I left behind while I was on the trails. But obviously there is always a chance that this could occur. My belongings always felt very safe while in Patagonia so I was never really concerned.
Can You Charge Electronics
Personally, I preferred to just take extra camera batteries and a power bank to recharge my phone. If you don’t have a power bank, or really need to make sure electronics are charged along the way, then it is possible to charge your electronics on the trail.
Most of the other hikes in Patagonia will not provide this level of luxury; however, most of the refugios on the W Trek and a couple of the stops on the back of the O Circuit provide you with access to power points. Obviously, please don’t depend on needing power to run anything, but if you occasionally need to charge something during your hike then it is an option.
Wifi is available to purchase on the W Trek. But I would recommend avoiding the temptation and just taking in the beauty of the park and the incredible people you meet along the way. Being completely disconnected, living in the moment, and experiencing the trail without distraction is one of my favourite aspects of hiking.
Should You Complete the W Trek or the O Circuit
If you are more experienced in alpine terrain and multi-day trekking, and have more time to spare, then I would suggest hiking the O Circuit instead of the W Trek. The W Trek forms part of the larger O Circuit which can take anywhere from 7 to 9 days to complete.
You will still see the French Valley and the famous towers of Torres Del Paine while on the O Circuit, but you will have the added bonus of also seeing the Southern Patagonian ice fields as you hike over the John Gardner Pass. You will also be hiking a more remote and less busy section of the Torres Del Paine National Park while on the back side of the O Circuit. This will be a highlight for anyone wanting a less busy and more disconnected vibe to their hike.
But if you can only spare 4 – 6 days or you have never completed a multi-day hike before and are looking to ease yourself into the world of trekking, then you can still opt for the W Trek instead of the O Circuit. You will still be left in awe of mother nature and will not be disappointed.
Other Recommended Reads
There is so much variety on the W Trek.
If you are headed to Patagonia to complete the W Trek, then I highly recommend also reading my Ultimate Guide to Torres Del Paine, which includes additional information about Puerto Natales, gear hire and preparation for the hike.
If the W Trek doesn’t sound like enough of an adventure for you and you want to really maximise your time in Torres Del Paine then you should definitely check out my guide to completing the O Circuit. The O Circuit takes around 7 – 9 days and is a more remote circuit. The O Circuit includes the W Trek, but it also requires you to cross the John Gardner Pass.
For anyone wanting to check out more of the incredible hiking, landscapes and views of Patagonia then I would suggest also having a look at some of my other favourite spots and hikes throughout the entire Patagonia region:
- The Best Hikes in El Chaltén, in Argentina
- The 4 Day Trek to Cerro Castillo, on the Carretera Austral in Chile
- Hiking and Camping in Pumálin Park, on the Carretera Austral in Chile
- The Best Hikes in Bariloche, in Northern Patagonia, Argentina
- Adventure Activities and Hiking on the Carretera Austral, Chile
Save it For Later
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If you have any questions then please ask me in the comments section and I will answer them to the best of my knowledge. Patagonia will change your life!
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--Girl Seeking Purpose