Bolivia

ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BOLIVIA

Bolivia is a country with interesting history and culture, impressive landscapes and a vast range of activities to suit all tastes. It is a playground for the adrenalin junkies, home to the studious traveller wanting to delve deep in the Bolivian culture and Spanish language and the perfect destination for the amateur photographer to hone their skills. From the captivating views of the salt flats, to the tall peaks of Huayna Potosi, and the death defying downhill corners of Death Road, you will fall in love with Bolivia.

HIGHLIGHTS

BOLIVIAN SALT FLATS IN UYUNI

Perhaps one of the most famous destinations in all of Bolivia are the enormous salt flats located in Uyuni; the Salar de Uyuni. Most people have seen the fun perspective photos of the salt flats in the dry season and the intense mirrored photos of the flats in the wet season. What a lot of people don’t realise is that this region isn’t just about the salt flats. There are also giant rock formations, sprawling lakes of various colours, thousands of flamingoes, natural thermal hot springs and train graveyards. There are tour operators a dime a dozen in this area offering to take you on round trips across the flats and others, all the way to Chile. While this is a very tourist driven destination in Bolivia, it is definitely something that can’t be missed during your time in this intriguing country.

SPANISH STUDY IN SUCRE

Sucre is the home to an endless number of schools that are geared towards teaching travellers Spanish. There are also a huge number of independent teachers offering one on one and small group private lessons from the comfort of your hostel or hotel. From beginners who have never learnt an ounce of Spanish to the seasoned traveller wanting to perfect their knowledge, there is something for everyone. It is also obtainable at a very affordable price, which is another reason why travellers flock here to study.

Given that this is also the political capital of Bolivia, the city is also loaded with interesting museums, detailed history and gorgeous architecture. It’s the kind of place you go to thinking you will only stay a few days before realising you have been there a few weeks. Just try not to get yourself caught in protests while you are there, or you might find it a little hard to study, or leave. Trust me, from personal experience.

DEATH ROAD IN LA PAZ

One of the other biggest draw cards to Bolivia is the challenge to tackle Death Road on a downhill mountain bike. For years adrenalin junkies have been drawn to this road with the desire to conquer it. The death rates when it was frequently used by vehicles is what earned it the name Death Road. Since the new highway has been built, there are much fewer cars on this road and a lot less deaths. Tackling it on a mountain bike, still has it’s own risks. While there have only been 27 deaths in the last 25 years on mountain bikes, local guides filled me in that there is around one person hospitalised per day and around one person who falls over one of the cliffs per week while biking down this beast.

All of these stats only urge people on even more. Even without the adrenalin component, the ride itself is full of the most incredible views. Starting at 4,400m above sea level and finishing your 63km downhill run at around 1,100m means you get to see a huge variety of flora and landscapes as well as climates. The cold brisk air of the high altitude at the beginning is finished off with the humid heat of the jungle like terrain at the bottom. I would highly recommend anyone who can ride a bike to give this a go, at their own risk of course. Try to avoid the ultra-budget tour companies as well, as they apparently make up for most of the scary stats you read about.

MARKET LIFE IN LA PAZ

For anyone hoping to buy a few souvenirs for home while in South America, this is the place to do it. The markets are bustling, full of life, colour and patterns, and offer a variety of Bolivian style goods and jewellery at very affordable prices. The more you buy, the more you can bargain as well. The Witches Markets known in Spanish as El Mercado de las Brujas, and Saganarga Street known as Calle Saganarga are both excellent options to get lost and spend some Bolivianos. These markets are also excellent opportunities to practice your Spanish language skills. Most locals will love that you are trying to speak Spanish and will help you out along the way.

LAKE TITICACA

There are so many different aspects to Lake Titicaca. A lot more than I had realised. You have the little town of Copacabana on the Bolivian side, as well as the stunning island, Isla Del Sol. There is also the city of Puno on the Peruvian side which is home to the floating reed islands. Every different area in Lake Titicaca has it’s own style, culture and architecture and you may want to stay a little longer than a one day breeze through if you want to get a real feel for it.

COPACABANA

Copacabana is a tiny little lake side village with a pretty chilled vibe. There are the typical market streets, friendly locals and a quaint little town square. There is always someone trying to sell you something but the prices of the Menu del Dia’s make the harassment worth it. Who doesn’t want a three course lunch with a drink for the price of a smoothie back home?

ISLA DEL SOL

I absolutely fell in love with Isla del Sol and I think you will too. It reminds me a lot of the Greek Islands. There are lots of tiny little huts and buildings perched across the very steep and rocky island. The entire time you are surrounded by pure blue water and gorgeous sunrises and sunsets. There are cobblestone paths leading you all over the island to various viewpoints, archeological sites, restaurants and cafes. There are some restricted areas on the island due to recent conflicts, but there are still plenty of accessible areas that are well worth the visit.

I would highly recommend staying one or two nights here as the ferry boat over and back takes three hours return. This doesn’t really leave much time for exploring. It is also extremely cheap compared to La Paz and Copacabana and you can hire an entire room, with an ensuite, breakfast and an incredible view for the same price as a lot of the hostels on the mainland.

IMPORTANT DETAILS

If you are planning a trip to Bolivia then here are the important details:

THE CURRENCY

The currency in Bolivia is Bolivianos (BOB). It is fairly easy to find ATM’s in Bolivia, especially while in the cities. Be mindful of the fees as each bank charge different fees for withdrawing cash. You do have the option at some ATM’s to withdraw USD also, if you are crossing a border soon or want to have some extra USD with you. A lot of places in Bolivia accept USD for payment as well. You will also need to make sure the ATM you are using is legitimate and that you are being mindful of your personal security when withdrawing money.

THE LANGUAGE

The most commonly spoken language in Bolivia is Spanish. In the Amazon regions you will find other languages and local dialects; however, in the rest of Bolivia, Spanish is the main language. The locals in Bolivia speak very traditional Spanish, and also speak quite slowly. They are much easier to understand for a non-Spanish speaking person than in other countries in South America such as Chile and Argentina where they speak quite fast and with slang. Bolivia is an excellent country to study, learn and practice Spanish as a secondary language.

THE PEOPLE

You will find the people in Bolivia to be quite friendly and helpful, if not a little bit shy compared to some of the other countries in South America. Even if the locals you encounter don’t speak English fluently, they will still try to communicate with you as best they can. They will also assist you in speaking Spanish if you are still learning and want to practice. A lot of the tour guides and drivers for various adventure activities are also Bolivian, and not foreigners which was great to see. While the driver we had for our three day tour on the salt flats did not speak any English, this did not stop him from being extremely friendly and striving to ensure we had the best time we could.

MODES OF TRANSPORT

Be mindful when travelling in Bolivia to keep your travel plans flexible. There are often strikes, protests and weather related delays. It is not uncommon for airports, buses and entire cities to close due to protests. Roads also closed very frequently during the wet season due to landslides and also when there is significant fog. Ensure you leave buffer days between all of your travel arrangements to allow for last minute changes.

TRAVEL BY BUS

This is one of the most popular forms of transportation between destinations in Bolivia. While the roads are winding and sometimes treacherous, the bus travel in Bolivia is a cost effective way to get around and to take in the landscapes along the way. The quality of the buses may not be as good as in Peru or Argentina, but they were still quite comfortable and clean. If you try and book a more expensive ticket with the most reputable company for that particular route then you shouldn’t have too much trouble.

Also, research and ask the locals about the routes you intend to take to see what the safety has been like in recent months. Some routes are known for more accidents than others. If a local tells you that they wouldn’t take that route then it is probably a good indication to give it a miss and find an alternate way.

TRAVEL BY PLANE

Flights in Bolivia can be both cheap and expensive, depending on the destination and when you book the flight. I caught one flight in Bolivia when I was trying to escape protests in Sucre, but it would have been a lot more cost efficient to catch a bus if the buses had still been running. Travel by air will save you a significant amount of time, as the roads in Bolivia wind up and down the mountains causing bus travel to be quite time consuming. If you are short on time and don’t mind the extra cost then catching flights may be a better option for you.

TRAVEL BY TAXI

You will find the taxis can be quite cheap in Bolivia if you negotiate an appropriate price before you start your journey. The taxis are not metered so you need to make sure you have either looked up or found out from another traveller or local what the appropriate price for your intended trip should be.

You can also negotiate a price for taxis to transport you between destinations as well. Some travellers found this to be a lot cheaper than to have three or four people each purchasing a bus ticket. It is also useful if you need transport from one town to a hiking trail or national park. Just keep in mind that the roads in Bolivia are often unsealed or very bumpy so an inter-city taxi ride of four hours or more is probably not going to be very comfortable.

WHEN TO VISIT

You can visit Bolivia all year round and still have an amazing time, although it is recommended to avoid travel between January and March if you want to be involved in a lot of outdoor or adventure activities. November through until March is the rainy season. While this allows for the mirrored effect on the salt flats, it does often disrupt road and air travel. Roads are often closed during the wet season due to land slides and eroded roads, particularly from January to March.

July through to August is a lot colder and drier. As long as you are prepared for the cold in the higher altitudes then this time of year is good for travel. There will also be higher likelihood of roads being open and running.

If you visit on the shoulder of the two seasons you will get the best of both worlds. I visited in May and was able to see both the mirrored version and the dry version of the salt flats, while not encountering any rain or tumultuous weather during my time in the country. While it was cold in the high altitudes, it was not freezing. The colder months are also great for visiting the Amazon regions where it is very hot and humid. Travelling to the lower lying areas in the colder months will make the usually high temperatures and humidity levels and little more bearable.